Dirk Friederich


I bought this for pleasure and experimentation. I found the parts generally of good quality and they fit together as well or better than expected. The instructions had to be gleened and squeezed from all the original sources and even then there were differences that had to be worked out.

For me, figuring out the machine was just part of the fun, but I can see where it could be frustrating for some.

I had some problems with screws coming loose, the print head being loose and the frame not sitting square or rigid enough for reproducible prints. My fix for this was to mount it on a rigid aluminum plate. One last thing is that the power supply is 12 volts. I think this limits the ultimate temperature of the bed and how fast the temperature gets there. It would neve obtain 100C for ABS so I had to settle for about 90C. A separate 24 V supply for the bed heaters and a fan ( and heat sink) on the switching transistors for insurance would fix the problem. It could be helpful on this to limit the current to the bed to avoid over temp.

I had to be rather inventive with mounting the zero reference limit switches, milling some mounts from acrylic, and adding an adjustment screw to the z axis.

I do not use the display/controller provided except for information. I use a laptop to send g-code to the machine since I've found that it can be difficult to predict the effect of changes of settings within Pronterface/slicer3d and the laptop makes editing on the fly easier. Not everyone has a spare laptop, but I have not tried the display controller with an SDHC so I cannot comment.

The configuration of the printer works well with PLA plastic and Kapton tape. ABS is more problematic because of the low bed temperature and the problem of warping on parts longer than 3 inches. I have considered a heated enclosure around the machine to keep a large ABS part (or newer different plastics) from experiencing non-uniform cooling as the print is laid down, and hopefully not warp. I think there is an extra switching transistor on the board that could be incorporated in this plan in some way. The question remains: will this interfere with the electronics or acrylic frame or mechanical stability?

I've enjoyed this project immensely, and am happy that I could purchase a "trial kit" cheaply enough that failure would bot be catastophic.



I am a technology teacher and we purchased 2 of these from this seller for use in the classroom (one for my lab, and one recently for another lab). Great product and customer service! We have several hundred hours worth of printing on mine already and doing great. Shipping was always great. I even have a student building one of these kits for himself as a school project.

Do a little research and pay close attention to accuracy and calibration while assembling and it will work great. You may need to check the table level weekly, but it is easy to level. I also have an older RapMan printer with dying electronics so I purchased an electronics kit from them (same Arduino Mega/RAMPS setup as in this printer) and upgraded that machine. Great service and communications every time. I highly recommend them!

Will Nickisch


Over all good quality. Connectors on stepper motors arrived damaged but they were good and replaced all broken items.

Patryk Radyjowski


Bought this kit from a seller half a year ago. I'm highly satisfied with the quality of parts (for a given price) and great customer service! One of the parts came broken and I got it replaced with express shipping no problem!

Before you buy / leave negative review - please keep in mind it is a KIT so you need a mechanical and electrical know-how in order to assemble this. It is not one of the fancy $1000+ everything-put-together for me printers. You will get a bunch of pieces, everything you need to put it together are some wrenches and screwdrivers.

Certain things about this particular printer could be improved, but that when the adventure with DIY 3D printers starts :) I've already upgraded it with bed autoleveling.

Overall great buy if you know something about mechanics and electronics know-how (or have friends who know about it) and want to enter the 3D printing family.

Evan P Thomas


This kit is for people who have some experience with electronics or are willing to do a little homework to understand. I had little experience but read a few articles on the reprap wiki and was good to go. I highly suggest that you get a decent digital multi-meter which you will need to calibrate the power supply (mine was just slightly off from being at 12v) and to calibrate the stepper drivers. If you don't calibrate the drivers, the motors will run slow, too hot, or not at all.

You will also need a good pair of wire strippers as some of the wires don't have connectors for the ramps board (there were more with the proper connectors in the box) and the wire for the fan was a bit short so I added some length to it. You will also need a soldering iron to wire up the heat bed (be sure to test the resistance on the bed to make sure its not too high or the bed won't heat properly) which isn't hard but I recommend watching a few tutorial videos if it is your first time. The last specialty tool you may need is a drill because the pre-drilled holes in the frame don't match up to the holes for the power supply or electronics.

I say may need because you don't have to mount them there or you could print a case for them (which looks way nicer) and mount that instead with matching holes. All of these tools are required for pretty much any printer that you have to build regardless of where you get it from.

I would also recommend that you skip using the spring to mount the heating bed. Springs make getting the print bed way harder than it has to be by just using 2 or 3 nuts on each screw. Using lock tight or nail polish will keep the nuts and bolts from slipping as the machine gets worn in by vibrations.

Okay now for my impressions of the machine: If you put everything together well (make sure you measure and make everything square) it is very sturdy and is pretty good looking if you are able to tether and manage the cables well. The aluminum print bed is a nice addition (most kits don't include this) because it makes the print bed light (less work for motors) and I print directly on it (most people recommend using painters tape, glue, etc). The motors are pretty quite and I'm able to watch TV in the same room while a print is running without it really disturbing anyone too much.

All in all, it was a fun learning experience and I'm getting good prints which get better every day. The configuration file that Sintron gives you (you have to email them for it) is pretty good and required almost no tweaking. Sintron support was solid and they quickly responded to questions that I emailed them and included a few extra pieces which are proven to breaking or malfunction on any printer. Keep in mind that this is a mid level home printer (in capability) which is easily upgrade-able as your prints get more demanding to the point that you can almost get high end level prints.This is a great buy if you are a do-it-yourselfer. If you aren't than stick with pre-made printers (which unfortunately will run over $1000).